A Bike Ride from Rome to Bologna 16th - 20th April 2024
This was a collection of memorable events, and so I’ll use that phrase as headings - but not necessarily in chronological order.
Why?
2024 was the 80th anniversary of the liberation of Rome during WW2. The war didn’t end when Rome was liberated - the Allies had reached Bologna by 2nd May 1944 when the Germans surrendered in Italy.
Ascents
For anyone not familiar with cycling in Italy, they have some of the best road surfaces for cycling in the world; and some of the best gradients, too. Each day we had a climb that just kept giving - some more than others. The last day, we could see a storm heading our way; and somewhere near the top, a flash of lightning, followed seconds later with a roll of thunder that kept us moving just ahead of the downpour.
Descents
For every ascent, there is (usually) a descent. And one of the many things I love so much about cycling in Italy is the long, sweeping curvy descents Italy gives its cyclists - and cycling tourists.
Stats
Rome to Orvieto - 132 km planned, 141 actual
Orvieto to Passignano sul Trasimeno - 131 km planned, 110.4 actual
Passagnano sul Trasimeno to Florence 137 km planned, 115.2 actual
Florence to Bologna - 119 km planned, 82.4 actual
Distances not done were missed due to rain, using our logistics van.
Below - outside Hotel California; checking out, ready to leave
Weather - and Logistics
From bright sunshine, we also had damp, wet chilly rain; and so made good use of our van. This enabled us to take most of the bikes to Rome, pick up Philippe’s and Chloe’s on the way, and take them all back.
Above and below - Italian countryside
On the second day, we were so cold and wet, Chloe and Chris stayed in a cafe while we pressed on to our hotel - each armoured with a bin bag down the front to keep out the cold (we had already decided to go directly there at the previous stop, missing Assisi and its CWGC) so I could return with the van and pick them up. We felt sure the village one-way system would have had Martin ending up in a ditch somewhere.
Bonlieu
En-route to Rome, and back from Bologna, we had a very hospitable stop in Bonlieu, about halfway between Calais and Bologna, with Philippe and Jo.
Navigation
Having prepared all the routes from Rome to Orvieto, to Passagnano sul Trasimeno, to Florence, to Bologna using a well known website, exported and distributed the .gpx files, I had not expected the routes to differ when using my bike sat nav (which is not a Garmin). But as a ‘for instance’, the start of our final day’s ride - which was to have started at the hotel in Florence - started 5.4 km east of where we were. Each day had a few “surprises”. Gravel roads; on the first day, that went to a forest track; across which a stream, 10 cm deep, was running across. And which was strewn with boulders, and a climb that Scafell Pike would be proud of.
More than once, we dropped the planned route and went “direct”. I was urged to upgrade my Strava account to “Strava +” and use that to navigate; most cyclists use it - and it apparently syncs with Garmin (and I hope it will do with my device). So I will [and, in fact, have].
Above - our wreath; below - an Italian sunset
Rest Stops
Most rest stops were planned; some were not. But without exception, we all enjoyed them. In particular, the Mariottinni Winery, a little west of Arezzo, was amazing.
Above - our group at the Mariottini Winery, with Mr Mariottini on the left
Below - our wreath card for Altare della Patria
Altare Della Patria
I obtained permission to lay a wreath here from Lt Col Cristiano De Ianni, Chief of Protocol in the High Operational Command in Rome only 2 days before setting off. As my Italian isn’t the best, and Google Translate didn’t help much, I replied suggesting what I hoped the authorisation included reciting “The Exhortation”, dipping a Standard, Last Post, ending with a silent tribute. He replied that no, it was for laying a wreath only. My National Cyclists Branch Standard was a banner, and they aren’t allowed. Anyway, it was a 25 minute walk from the hotel, so we set off in good humour; bikes in the hotel reception; luggage in our rooms; all good.
5 minutes into the walk, I had a melt down.
The wreath was still in the van - and the card that I had prepared for it was in my room. Handing the Standard over, I made haste to get the wreath - there wouldn’t be time to get the card as well - and took a taxi back. Which took me to the Hotel Patria, not Altare Della Patria… but despite this detour I somehow arrive with 3 minutes to spare.
Below - the Altare della Patria
Cristiano had let me know he wouldn’t be able to attend, but had handed things over to Major (Maria) Carozza. She was not best pleased to see our 4 cycling tourists, perhaps expecting a little more respect in their attire; but when I turned up, dusting the dust from my jacket (that had slipped out of the car as I arrived - brushing my Veteran’s badge from my lapel under the gate as I did so - and slipped my tie into place, she explained what was to happen. In detail. All went well; and their bugler did a good rendition of The Last Post, too. But after he’d finished - and during the minute’s silent tribute - I heard a little voice calling my name. And again. So at the 60 second mark, I raised my head and about-turned; descended the steps and made my way over to the crew; shook their hands, and asked Maria if I could retrieve the wreath - we had brought the one wreath, that we wanted to lay - and pick up again - after each ceremony at the CWGCs along our way.
Below - Major Carozza leading me away
“No” she said. “But I must insist” said I; “I will call my colleague” she replied and began to tap her phone. I had expected this, so continued with saying that we had always intended to do so, to make our wreath the visible symbol of our homage paid not only to your Ignoto Militi (inscribed on the tomb) but also all those resting in the war graves we will visit on our way to Bologna. She put her phone away, thought for a moment; and said “Very well”... and we retraced our steps to the wreath - where I stopped her again. This was a moment that wouldn’t be repeated, ever. So I said this was a truly memorable, honourable and humbling experience, and that I was so very sorry to have to ask to take the wreath away; but so it must be.
Then reached down and picked it up.
I learned later that Chris wasn’t slow in suggesting there was no way we’ll be taking that wreath away; but not to worry - we could order a pizza and rearrange the pepperoni instead each time.
Outside the gates, I explained that I’d lead our group in another brief ceremony, with the wreath laying, The Exhortation, and a dip of the Standard; and a silent tribute.
Taking photos, Chris was pushed aside by at least one curious tourist and, afterwards, we were asked what the significance of the Standard was by an American.
Then it was time for refreshments… our cocktail of choice, “After Theatre” had an ingredient “Bitter Cyclist”…
Accommodation
I chose our hotels based on a number of criteria; location, price, quality being a few; and we were very pleased with them. Hotel California, in Rome, was so good we could check out but we couldn’t leave… no, wait, perhaps that’s part of a song… Hotel Bavaria, in Florence, was 16th century; 2 flights of 16th century stairs - and no lift - meant for an interesting day off in Firenze.
CWGC
Out of the 9 cemeteries we had planned to visit, Rome, Bolsena, Orvieto, Assisi, Foiano della Chiana, Arezzo, Florence, Castiglione and Bologna, Assisi, Arrezo and Florence were skipped as it was raining - sometimes, and in fact, mostly, heavily.
People
The cyclists were; Chloe Cassabois, Philippe Cassabois (Chloe’s Dad), Chris Nutland, John Millen, John Taylor and myself, Paul Harding. Our driver from Rome to Bologna was Martin Pearce. Our support vehicle, a Citroen Relay panel van was loaned from “Forces United”, a Watford based charity led by DL Luther Blissett OBE.
Below - at the Bologna Polish War Cemetery
